Monday, January 23, 2012

Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Black


I think it's been well established that I like Lighthouse.  I've already dedicated two full articles to reviewing three of their beer, with a fourth featured in a 3-in-1 review.  I was not planning on revisiting this brewery, not for a very long time, and yet I'm going to shatter that expectation.  Why?  Oh well I could go on and on about how this is my blog, how you lot should get used to it, how you all are peasants under the influence of my lordly iron grip...  But truth be told, I've just been anticipating this beer for a number of months, ever since it was an unnamed rumour that was said only to have a matte black bottle.  I knew from that small hint alone that it would be something up my alley, and as fate would have it, my expectations proved true.

It's called the Belgian Black, so right away you know there's no messing about.  Lighthouse seems to covet their Belgian style beers, beginning with the Saison and the IPA, and now culminating with this dark and difficult third album.  Luckily, they have pulled it off.  Largely.

10 points if you get this reference.
So upon first impressions, what does the Belgian Black have to offer?  Well, it doesn't scream, shout or punch you in the face, but what it does do is tantalize your palate as you go back for more.  And more.  The initial flavour is, well, it's good, but it's not the sort of shock-and-awe I had originally hoped for.  I was expecting armageddon in my mouth, but instead received only an ICBM of flavour to the tongue.  It's still certainly no slouch upon that initial swing, but it doesn't fully come into its own until you've had a few more.  This is one of those highly complex beers that changes ever so slightly each time you try it.  One swallow may produce spicy, sweet notes, while the next will be bitter and bold.  It's odd, yet captivating.  It's somehow subtle and outrageous all at once.  It earns my vote of confidence.

This is quite a unique beer.  I'm sure others like it exist, but in my quest for exciting new beer, I've yet to find them.  And that's special, because while I enjoy an extremely powerful iteration on a common beer type like a stout or winter ale, unique or rare beer variants are always interesting to investigate.

As an additional note, the Black weighs in at a hefty 9%.  Certainly not the strongest beer I've had this season, but among them, and in some intangible way, this beer actually feels significantly more powerful than the alcohol content suggests.  It could be that combination of rich, spiced, savoury taste melding with a high percentage, but it's like an injection of smooth flavours laced with muscle relaxants.  Seal of approval goes here.

And if all else fails, you've got that incredible bottle art to admire.  Oooo, pretty.

Insert obligatory pirate pun here.


Taste:  Not the nuclear bomb of flavour you might expect from a strong, dark beer, but what comes instead is a slow-burning, yet intense and complicated assortment of flavours ranging from bitter to sweet and back again.  Belgian styles tend to have a smoothness to them, and this one is no exception.  Really very good.

Aroma:  It's surprisingly lacking considering everything going on in there.


Aftertaste:  There are few beers that achieve this level of complexity.  Each sip, swig and swallow must be savoured for the full effect, left to make you wonder what the next may bring with it.

Recommended?:  Yes.

Verdict:  Is this Lighthouse's masterpiece?  Well, I'd love to say unequivocally yes, but it's a tough call.  This is definitely an excellent beer, though I fear my expectations may have been out of control.  What this beer is, is extremely well-rounded.  It's got the very high percentage, it's got the great, complex flavour, it's got a smooth finish and aftertaste, and it has absolute presence, with that intimidating name and bottle art.  I'd happily have a half dozen more bottles before the end of the season (a point which I may well prove).


Score:  9 mugs out of 10


For more on Lighthouse, cruise on over to their website:  http://www.lighthousebrewing.com/



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