Wednesday, September 7, 2011

The Bubonic Plague Has Come Again

Honestly, I don't see what all the fuss was about. Those Europeans were practically showered with Black Death all those hundreds of years ago...just what were they complaining about?


I do, of course, refer to Russell Brewing Company's tasty little number known as Black Death Porter. And I will admit, yes, it was the name that drew me to this particular beer (marketing works, folks!).

Now, let's address the elephant in the room. This is the second week in a row that I've reviewed a porter. Oh deary me. Well, quite frankly, I give not one damn, and will continue reviewing porters until Judgment Day if it pleases me. Truth be told however, I value variety and diversity in my beer-soaked adventures, so it's fitting then that this porter may not be exactly what you expect.

Whereas most porters I've tried tend to be on the syrupy and thick side of things, and heavy with molasses, the Black Death, while very potent, very dark and very flavourful, favours a more refreshing, sweet and crisp taste that I don't generally associate with porters. It's smooth, yet bitey...and I rather like it. And at 6.5%, it's no pushover.  It's also the perfect cruising beer, because as with all porters and stouts, it's best not to drink it immediately after removing it from the fridge, making it ideal to take with you to allow it to 'warm up' (have it cool rather than cold).

So...sounds great right? But where then is my usual lavishing praise, my nonsensical jargon, my silly and hyperbolic japes, all of which tend to walk hand-in-hand with particularly excellent beers that I'm reviewing? Well, the truth of it is that such silliness comes out only to accompany such passion. Don't get me wrong here; the Black Death is a very good porter, but I don't get that same punch-in-the-back, pepperspray-to-the-face sensation that I get with your King Heffys, your Frambroises, or your Old Rasputins. It also has little to critique, so I can't go off the deep end in the other direction, ripping it a new one in all manner of entertaining and shouty ways. I'm afraid that this review is the most dreaded thing of all. I'm afraid that this review...is serious and sober.



Depending on your definition of serious and sober, that is.




Well then, on to the really serious stuff.



Taste:  Somewhat unusual for a porter, but in a good way.  It's crisp and refreshing, almost in a way you'd expect from a more citrusy beer, like a hefeweizen or something flavoured.  While the thick and juicy molasses taste is certainly present, I can imagine a non-porter drinker enjoying it just as much.  Some may detect a hint of hops, but as a beer drinker who cannot abhor the taste of extremely hoppy beer, I can confirm that it's nowhere near enough to be off-putting.

Aroma:  To be honest, either I never noticed, or it was completely forgettable.

Aftertaste:  Oh complexity...how do I love thee?  Let me count the ways:  All sorts of fun things go on in your mouth after the initial swallow (INNUENDO MUCH?).  The stronger, traditional porter flavours are not immediately present, basically lulling you into a false sense of security before pouncing, leaving you at the mercy of syrupy molasses goodness.  You'll be better off for it though.  And it leaves a nice, near-burning sensation that you'd expect from something much, much stronger.  

Recommended?:  Yes.  If you're a fan of porters or dark beer, definitely give this one a shot.  If you're not, I would still recommend it because of the interesting bridging between dark, powerful beer and light and refreshing summery beer.

Verdict:  Jolly well done Russell.  This is not the most amazing beer I've had, not even the best porter, but it is nonetheless very good, and an interesting specimen as well.  Plus, you can tell all your friends that you're drinking Black Death, and that just never gets old.

Score:  8 mugs out of 10.









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